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No, You Still Can't Bring Salami Home From Italy

No, You Still Can't Bring Salami Home From Italy

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For hundreds of years, Italian craftsmen have been making some of the world’s finest cured meat. But for the past 40 years or so, much of it has been ineligible for import into the United States because of fears of a dangerous ailment called swine vesicular disease. Last Friday, however, the U.S. Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services (APHIS) decreed that pigs in the regions of Lombardia, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto, and Piemonte, as well as the provinces of Trento and Bolzano, are free of the disease, and starting May 28 both fresh and cured pork from those regions will now be cleared for import.

The New York Times today reported that "Inspection Services did not specify what standards would now have to be met by Italian producers, nor the expense of meeting them," but assumed that the relaxed laws would "change a way of life for many delicacy-loving tourists and Italian-Americans, who have smuggled in Italian salamis for private consumption, and sometimes for sale."

We reached out to the APHIS ourselves, however, and unfortunately smugglers will still be smugglers after the new rules go into effect.

"These products will not be allowed in personal passenger baggage or carry-on," a representative from the agency confirmed to us. "Importers that ship to the U.S. for commercial use will be able to obtain the appropriate certification allowing the entry of these products into the U.S."

It’s still not clear exactly what that certification will be, or if this means that all the little artisanal producers will now be able to export to the States or if they’ll still need USDA approval, but two things are certain: more Italian meat is headed for the U.S., and it’s not allowed in your suitcase.

Chef Michael White, of New York’s Marea and Osteria Morini, told us that he’s happy that the laws are relaxing, but was concerned that it might have an effect on American production. "I’m afraid that no one’s going to be making it here anymore," he told us. "In my Hong Kong restaurant we were able to take advantage of so many Italian meats, but not here so much. It’s really spectacular stuff."

When he had time to think about it, though, White changed his mind. "Actually, it probably won’t have too much of a negative effect," he added. "The animals here are too good."

How to Dry Sausage at Home: A Quick Guide

Drying sausages at home can be very rewarding. Whether you’re making your own beer, cheese, ice cream, sausages or any other food at home, it really is hard to beat. A sausage that’s made with your own carefully selected, natural ingredients will always tastes better a store bought product filled with unwanted extras.

This article assumes you already know how to make your own sausages and are at the drying stage. If you need to jump back to the start, check out our ultimate guide to making sausages. This will help you get set up and assumes you have no knowledge on this subject.

The Sausage Torture Chamber

Before we get to the right way to cook sausage, let's talk about some of the wrong ways:

The Chest-Burster

A burnt and busted-open casing, sooty flavor, juices lost to the grill gods.

What happened: This is what happens when you throw a sausage over the highest possible heat. Just like other meats, sausages contract as they cook, and in proportion to how high a temperature they're cooked to. Cook a sausage over high heat, and the casing and outer layers will quickly get very hot, causing them to contract a great deal. Meanwhile, the raw sausage meat in the center won't have contracted at all.

What happens next is sort of like what happens to the Incredible Hulk, but instead of the Hulk growing faster than his clothes, imagine his clothes shrinking in proportion to his body.

The casing and outer layers crack and burst open. Liquefied fat and expelled meat juices from the center pour out onto your fire, causing it to flare up and leaving a sooty deposit all over your sausage. The result is an acrid-tasting sausage, with a dry, juiceless center.

The Two-fer

An inedible, raw center and a burnt, cracked exterior. Simultaneously overcooked and undercooked. No good.

What happened: Another product of high-heat cooking. This time, you wise up and add the sausages to a moderately hot grill. No good: You still end up with a sausage that cooks too fast, so the exterior is overcooked before the center has a chance to come up to temperature.

The Unloved Grandmother

Okay, so this time, you take it to the opposite extreme, cooking the sausage the entire way through on the cooler side of the grill. You get a tiny bit of browning, no bursting at all, and when you pull it off the heat, it looks plump and juicy as can be. But within moments, it deflates like a sad balloon: a wrinkled, dry shell of its former self.

What happened: Without enough heat, by the time you get any significant browning on the exterior, the interior layers will have already overcooked. Steam and expanded muscle tissue will give the sausage a plump appearance while it's still hot, but as soon as it comes off the grill and cools slightly, it shrivels up again.

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Both Miami and Tampa claim to have the best version of the Cubano Sandwich. The difference between the two Cubano variations is minimal. Both Miami and Tampa versions share the classic Cubano structure discussed above of Cuban bread, ham, Cuban roast pork, Swiss cheese, and pickles, but the Tampa version features a layer of Genoa salami, the Miami version does not.

Genoa salami is a kind of salami believed to have originated in Genoa, Italy. It is seasoned with garlic, salt, black and white pepper, and red or white wine. The Tampa contingent believes salami adds yet another layer of salty flavor to the already decadent sandwich, which makes their version superior. To prove their point, the Historic Tampa Cuban Sandwich was designated the “signature sandwich of the city of Tampa” by the Tampa City Council in 2012. Miami, on the other hand, stands by their Cuban Sandwich motto that simple is superior.

So how did salami become a staple in Cuban Sandwiches in Tampa? In the early 1900s, Tampa was the home to both many Cuban and Italian immigrants. As the people and cultures mingled, so did their foods and eventually, salami, a staple on Italian sandwiches, became a staple on Cubano Sandwiches in Tampa.

As far as which is better? We know what Tampa and Miami will say, but in the end, it comes down to personal preference. I personally think salami makes everything better, even Cubano Sandwiches. So, if you like salami, chances are you will love it on Cubanos if the jury is still out, it’s better to omit the salami because it’s not a subtle addition.

The Cheat: So You Still Can't Get a Reservation at Babbo?

One of the singular pleasures of eating out in New York City in the early years of the new century is the arrival of a plate of steaming beef-cheek ravioli at Babbo, Mario Batali's flagship restaurant on Waverly Place in Greenwich Village.

The delicate pasta triangles glisten beneath a velvety sauce made of crushed squab liver livened with capers and anchovies. Soft shavings of pecorino Romano wilt in the sauce's heat. At the pressure of a fork, the dough gives way to the soft, buttery ooze of a melting beef interior, and the scent of Sunday gravy travels up from the plate on a magic carpet of shaved black truffles.

Accompanied by a glass of Barolo, and consumed alongside a person of beauty and intelligence, the beef-cheek ravioli at Babbo represent a pinnacle of the fine dining range in Manhattan.

That said, it is exceedingly difficult to get a reservation at Babbo, which is Italian for "busy signal." Also, the restaurant's waiters are as encouraging as the food is excellent, so you tend to eat to excess. Such behavior can lead to a glass of grappa at the end of the meal. Grappa, an alcohol distilled from the skins and seeds of grapes used to make wine, is occasionally used to fuel airplanes. Its human application promises clarity but more often delivers headaches and the dull realization that you have spent a great deal more than $200 for dinner.

So I set out to make the things myself, at home.

To do so required a few adjustments, of course. There are two ways of looking at the business of cooking restaurant-quality food in your own kitchen. The first is to aim for simple menu replication, which calls for excellent ingredients and expert hands at the stove. This is a rube's game and should be avoided most home cooks have neither. The second is to cut corners, substituting supermarket ingredients for the stuff chefs get from luxe sources all over the globe and making up for it with big flavors and lots of them. To cheat, in other words, and to celebrate the self-deception.

Because, ask yourself: beef cheeks? Squab liver? Come on, now. The butcher at my supermarket is a nice fellow, cuts me double-thick chops when I ask, can even locate the odd first-cut brisket or brace of duck legs once in a while. He doesn't get beef cheeks, though. Nor any part of a squab. (And even if you could find them down at the market, black truffles have no place in the home kitchen.)

The truth is, Italian food demands but does not require the best ingredients and the haughtiest treatment. No cuisine so rooted in poverty ever can. So substitute chicken liver for the squab in the sauce. Substitute brisket for beef cheeks in the filling. As Batali said one day over coffee, you could use anything braised, anything soft.

"Ravioli are just a delivery system for leftovers," he said, sitting amid the chaos that is Babbo in the morning, tables stacked in corners, bags of bread lined along the walls. "Ravioli were invented to get rid of leftovers. Take a short rib, if you have one, or last night's pot roast. Grind it with the vegetables, which makes it lighter."

More stipulations. There are far more pasta machines in the United States than you would think, most of them residing, tarnished and dusty, in kitchen cabinets above refrigerators, obscured from view by boxes of cereal. But there is no need to make the pasta for the ravioli here in a machine. You can roll it out in portions with a pin on a floured counter and do just as well with less frustration. The mandarins of gastronomy will tell you this leads to better "mouth feel" anyway, the pasta picking up the texture of wood on the counter and the rolling pin and providing hidden crannies for the sauce.

There is likewise no need to make all parts of the dish in one day. In fact, sauce and filling each benefit by resting before use, their flavors maturing together in repose.

At Babbo, the ravioli are made in the morning, then frozen and stored in baggies until they're served that night or the next. It's a technique worth aping, even if you don't have a freezer set to 24 degrees below zero, as Batali does.

And so, you could braise a piece of brisket or a couple of short ribs after work on Friday night, then grind it down on Saturday morning, adding seasoning as you go. "You don't want it salty," Batali said, and then paused to offer the sort of mischievous smile that, in college kids, generally presages the offer of drugs or a morning beer. "But you want it up there." You could sauté your chicken livers at around the same time, make the paste that will become your sauce and enjoy a little bit of it for lunch, on toast. You could make the pasta after lunch and let it rest as you take a nap.

All that's left is to roll the stuff out and cut it into squares, which is easier work than youɽ think. Then assemble the ravioli, cover them carefully and put them in the freezer. (Order a pizza for dinner.)

Cooking the things for friends the following night is the work of a few minutes. Boil water. Melt butter in pan. Add chicken livers. Cook ravioli in water. Apply sauce to these in exactly the same manner you would mix vinaigrette into a salad. Serve, passing cheese on the side.

"If it works," Batali said when I ran through my recipe notes with him, "it is true." Religions have been built on less.

Pasta Dough for Ravioli 2 cups all-purpose flour, or more as needed 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3 large eggs 2 large egg yolks 2 tablespoons olive oil.

1. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl, making a well in the middle. In a small bowl, beat together the eggs, egg yolks and olive oil, then pour into the well in the flour. Mix with the fork until the flour begins to clump together. When the mixture becomes too hard to stir with a fork, use your hands. Knead dough in the bowl or on a lightly floured board until it is quite stiff and no longer sticky. Sprinkle with a little flour. Cover with plastic or a cloth, and let it rest for about 30 minutes.

2. Lightly sprinkle a wooden board with flour. Cut off one-third of the dough keep the rest covered while you work. Roll the dough lightly in flour, then flatten it into a rectangle about the width of your hand. Roll a rolling pin over the dough up and down, left and right. Flip the dough over about every two dozen rolls. If the dough sticks, dust with more flour. Repeat until the pasta is roughly 24 inches in length and 8 inches wide. Dust with flour and set aside repeat with remaining dough.

3. To form jackets for ravioli, cut each sheet of dough into rectangles about 24 inches long and 4 inches wide, trimming edges neatly.

Chicken Livers Toscani 7 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium red onion, chopped 1 pound chicken livers 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed 1 large pinch red pepper flakes, or to taste 1 cup red wine Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat 4 tablespoons oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Add livers, capers, anchovies and pepper flakes, and cook until livers are lightly browned. Add wine and cook until only a few tablespoons of liquid remain, about 15 minutes. Transfer mixture to a food processor, and add remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Pulse until mixture is blended but still lumpy. Transfer to a small bowl, and adjust salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until needed. Makes about 2 cups.

Faux Babbo Ravioli 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium white onion, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 pound beef brisket cut into 1-inch cubes (or short ribs) 1 cup red wine, plus more as needed 1/2 cup chopped fresh or canned tomatoes, plus more as needed 1 large pinch chopped fresh rosemary Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Pasta dough for ravioli (see recipe) 5 tablespoons unsalted butter Chicken livers Toscani (see recipe) 1 handful Italian parsley, chopped 1/2 cup grated pecorino Romano cheese.

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place a large, ovenproof skillet over medium heat and add the oil. Add onion and celery and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Increase heat to high and (working in batches, if necessary) brown beef on all sides. Add the wine and deglaze the pan. Add tomatoes and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper. When the mixture returns to a boil, cover and place in oven until meat is fork-tender, 45 minutes.

2. Remove pot from oven and allow to cool. Skim off excess fat, transfer to a food processor, and pulse until smooth. If the mixture seems dry, add a tablespoon of wine or 1 or 2 tablespoons of tomatoes. Taste and adjust seasoning.

3. Cut sheets of pasta into 4-inch squares. Place 1 tablespoon beef filling into the center of each square. Wet edges of pasta with warm water, and bring two opposite corners of each square together to form a triangle. Press edges to seal. Put finished ravioli on a cookie sheet, cover with plastic and place in freezer until needed.

4. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Heat butter in a large sauté pan until it browns but does not burn. Add about half the chicken livers Toscani and sauté for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons of the salted water to loosen the sauce. Reduce heat to low and keep warm.

5. Add the ravioli to the boiling water and cook until they float to the surface, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer ravioli to pan of chicken liver sauce. Add parsley and 1/4 cup grated pecorino. Toss lightly. Divide ravioli on four warm plates. Spoon extra sauce over each serving and top with cheese. Serve immediately. Serves 4.


Let’s go over how to make these ultimate healthy biscotti! While researching biscotti, I discovered that the original recipe required very few ingredients: flour, sugar, eggs, and almonds. They included no butter, oil, milk, cream, or salt… Everything except the salt would typically make them spoil faster. So to make these ultimate healthy biscotti as close to the originals as possible, this recipe doesn’t use any of those ingredients either!

However, you know me… I try to put a healthier spin on everything, and these biscotti are no exception!

Instead of refined all-purpose flour, you’ll start with white whole wheat flour. White whole wheat flour doesn’t actually contain any all-purpose (aka “white”) flour! It’s made by finely grinding a special type of soft white wheat (hence the name!), whereas regular whole wheat flour comes from a heartier variety of red wheat. They both have the same health benefits (like extra fiber!), but the softer texture of the wheat gives white whole wheat flour a lighter taste and texture. This lets the sweet almond flavor of your ultimate healthy biscotti truly shine!

Because this recipe requires a delicate balance of wet and dry ingredients, it’s very important to measure the flour correctly using this method or a kitchen scale. (← That’s the one I own!) Too much flour will dry out your cookie dough, meaning you won’t be able to shape it into a log for the first bake. I promise it’s worth taking a few extra moments to measure your flour so your ultimate healthy biscotti turn out with the perfect sweetness and crunchy texture!

I did deviate from the original recipe in one small way… I added a teensy bit of baking powder to the cookie dough. (Shh, don’t tell the Prato bakery!) I found this gave the biscotti a little lift and slightly airier texture so they weren’t quite so dense. With how well these ultimate healthy biscotti turned out, it was definitely worth breaking tradition!

Next, you’ll whisk an egg with one of my all-time favorite ingredients… Almond extract! I absolutely LOVE its sweet and sophisticated flavor. It’s my #1 favorite baking extract! (Which reminds me… I don’t bake with it nearly enough. Would you like to see more recipes with almond extract?? Leave me a comment and let me know!)

Then you’ll stir in coconut sugar! Coconut sugar is exactly what it sounds like: an unrefined sweetener that comes from coconuts. However, it does NOT actually taste like coconuts! It has a rich caramel-like flavor, very similar to brown sugar, but a dry and pourable texture just like granulated sugar. You can usually find it on the baking aisle right next to the granulated, brown, and powdered sugars!

Once you’ve stirred in the flour mixture, you’ll add in sliced almonds. I love using ones that are already toasted (like this!), which brings out their natural sweetness. Although the original recipe called for whole raw almonds… I didn’t like having humongous chunks of almonds in my biscotti, and they tasted a little too earthy for me. Toasted sliced almonds definitely make for the best ever healthy biscotti!

No, You Still Can't Bring Salami Home From Italy - Recipes

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Three Low Carb Pasta Salad Recipes

Low carb doesn’t mean no pasta allowed. I like to eat pasta in 1/2 cup servings, which is how I’ve made each of the salads below. These are not keto recipes, but think of them as transitional. As you start to reduce your overall net carbs, you still want to feel full and satisfied. Whether you’re looking to go keto, low carb or just eat something new, I can’t wait for you to try these recipes!

If you’re gluten free, you can use any gluten free pastas in these recipes.

WISCONSIN: Egg & Flour Pasta Bar in Milwaukee

Rick R./ Yelp

With a URL that reads, you know that Egg & Flour Pasta Bar isn't messing around when it comes to the Italian-inspired dishes.

"Their Bucatini got me hooked! Fresh pasta in a bowl of luscious rich sauce topped with a heap of grated cheese and chives. Ultimate comfort food for anyone who just wants to enjoy a bowl of simply good pasta," writes one superfan.

Watch the video: OVO SE DUGO CEKALO! - LAZANSKI SRBIMA OSTAVIO RESENJE ZA KOSOVO!: Ako to uradimo, GOTOVO je zauvek! (July 2022).


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